Historical interpretation of a coastal Virginia tavern during the Golden Age of Piracy (1680-1730)
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Thursday, May 30, 2013
The Spring Tansy
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), also known as golden buttons or bitter buttons, is a tall perennial native to Europe with a strong scent and a bitter taste. The name comes from the Greek athanatos meaning immortal, and either refers to tansy's long bloom time or its use as a preservative in coffins. Historically tansy was used as an insect repellant for ants and flies, as a strewing herb on floors, as a disinfectant, and as a medicinal herb. Today we know tansy is potentially toxic and should not be taken internally. Tansy oil is highly toxic both internally and externally.
"The Herb fried with Eggs (as is accustomed in the Spring time) which is called a Tansy, helpeth to digest, and carry downward the bad Humours that trouble the Stomach: The Seed is very profitably given to Children for Worms, and the Juice in Drink is effectual. Being boiled in Oil it is good for the sinews shrunk by Cramps, or pained with cold, if thereto applied. Also it consumes the Phlegmatic Humours, the cold and moist condition of Winter most usually infects the Body of Man with, and that was the first reason of eating Tansies in the Spring. At last the world being overrun with Popery, a Monster called Superstition perks up his head...and now forsooth Tansies must be eaten only on Palm and Easter Sundays, and their neighbor days; [the] Superstition of the time was found out, but the Virtue of the herb hidden, and now 'tis almost, if not altogether, left off." Nicholas Culpepper (1616-1654) The English Physician, 1652
During the sixteenth century, the English served custardy Easter puddings and sweet cakes made with tansy and served with fried eggs to cleanse the blood and undo the ills of the salted fish Lenten diet. Tansy juice was added to egg dishes called "tanseys" making them green, and the cream and sugar helped to offset the bitter taste. Since tansy was considered a "stomachic", this practice may have improved a digestive system gone sluggish from winter. So the name refers not only to the plant, but also to the spring dishes made with it. It is possible that tansy was eaten as a Christian tradition in honor of the bitter herbs of Passover, not solely as a spring tonic.
A Virginia cookbook from "Anonymous", circa 1700, lists this recipe for a Tansey (the writer wasn't much on punctuation, but could read and write which was no small feat for a woman at that time): "Take 20 Eggs beat them well and a Double handful of Spinage (spinach) Stamp it and Strain it beat a little Tansey with ye Spinage & put it a mong ye Eggs with a pint of Cream & Rowles (rolls) Greated with Salt and Sugar then put it in a Skillet well Buttered with a Lump of Butter in it & keep Sturing till it is as Thick as pudding then Butter a Dish put in & Lay it over Coles (coals) for above an hour & then turn it out & Serve it with Rose watter Butter & Sugar and Eat it." This recipe is for historic informational purposes only.
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